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The Midas Touch: Vandana Agarwal
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Jadau Facts
- Engraved traditional art of the Indian states of Rajasthan and Gujarat.
- Also known by the names of "Jadau " and "Jadtar", this form of jewelry was introduced in India by the Mughals.
- The craftsmen of India picked up this art and made it popular and famous. Today, it is a thriving industry, which attracts buyers from all over the world.
- The Jadau jewelry is basically jewelry in which precious and semi precious stones, gems, crystals and beads are embedded. The jewelry on which the stones and gems are to be set is melted a bit. When the gold becomes pliable, the stones are set on it with great precision and artistry. After that, it is allowed to cool down and the stones, gems, etc. get fixed on it without any adhesive or carvings. These days, Jadau is done on not just jewelry but also jewelry boxes and delicate showpieces.
- Store kundan jewelry in white paper packets or white cotton cloth. Avoid storing it in velvet boxes as the gold around the gems might get tarnished.
Terminology
Necklace:
- Katla, made of 9 pieces joining in a row.
- Teek which looks like a collar.
- Tetua slang used for neck.
- Patrihar is a long necklace with the pieces joined like a string with pearl or color stone beads.
- Champakali is also a type of necklace resembling pieces like buds of flower Champa. These buds are assembled in a half moon shape.
- Hasli is a half moon shaped rod like necklace. Hasli is made in various places but Varanasi hasli is wider than that of other places.
Earings:
- Karnafool means flower of the ears.
- Jhumka - A dome like piece hanging from the ears
Bracelet:
- Churi - Kangan - A regular bangle.
- Jahangiree being the center piece oval or rectangular
- Kada, Kankini, Pachheli and Chhand were to be worn together.
- Hathfool is a beautiful oriental ornament covering the entire palm and fingers.
Ring:
- Arsi is a special kind of ring in which a mirror is studded with precious stones
Ornaments for head and forehead:
- Chhapka is an ornament to be worn by the side of head.
- Juluf has 9 strings in which five types of tikda hanging.
- Sikabena has nine peacocks covering forehead.
- Bindibena is similar ornament using Tikdis.
Kalangi and Sarpech are ornaments for the male. Pajeb are for leg and Kardhani for the waist.
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Rohini Bhatia-Singh
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