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Stunning bridal wear
By Soojata Kothari
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The collection
Soojata's latest Bridal Collection is in a muted range of water-coloured tones decorated with burnished gold/silver embroidery wire work (badla / tila ), sequences, thread-work etc. The sarees, churidars , salwar kameezes , and lehngas are in subtle semi-precious hues that off-set and enhance the embroidery and decorative embellishments of the outfits. The three colour palettes represent the complete spectrum of the rainbow and include salmons, misty rusts, deep siennas to rich ochres in the first. The second is brighter and lighter in cotton-candied pinks, canary yellows, celeries, cyans, and virdian mints. "Green has always been a traditional wedding colour," says Soojata, but lime-green has been popular in recent years." And the third palette includes everything from the traditional maroons, beiges, alizarin reds, to the ripe plums.
"This year crochet, cut-works, patchwork, cord work would be the most noticeable change as opposed to last year's collection. I am also doing a lot of work on brocade, Chantilly laces, net and other types of fabrics. The look is definitely old world Victorian, vintage, and a throw-back to the 50's where halters, low-back cholis and lace were considered a rage."
The styles have changed considerably from the traditional and are more flattering to the female physique. "I have A- line lehngas which are in two tiers on lighter weight fabrics which flow more easily and give a little more flair at the bottom. The cut is asymmetrical and the layering effect has a western influence. The dupatta is draped in an Indo-Western manner." Her pre-pleated saree is also gaining popularity among the cognoscenti. "The petticoat is stitched in a loose silhouette. A pre-stitched saree (heavily embroidered) is then attached to this which contains a panel and pallu that is draped like a saree-lehnga ." She continues, "The tops aren't just blouses but are exotic cholis , European styled corsets, or French bustiers given that desi touch."
A word of advice
"There are countless designs and as many designers available in urban centres in India. This is both positive and negative. The families have lots of places to visit when searching for the perfect designer and perfect fit, and the bride just gets more and more confused. In the olden days the bride would be open to the suggestion of the designer. Today she has her own ideas culled from magazines, fashion shows, and celebrities. I try to encourage all brides to be individual and see what suits them and what they can wear with confidence sans worry."
If you're planning to order a bridal outfit, it will take about four weeks from creation to completion...
Step 1
Meeting the bride
- Make-up
- Jewellery
- Clothes
"Here I look at the bride, her height and weight and overall personality. I look at her complexion, and her jewellery she plans to wear."
Step 2
"I show her the clothes displayed which usually represent the current wearables. I keep only a select pieces on display as I try and do more made-to-order work than copying someone else's ideas. My current collection is an amalgamation of my work in the business and there are somethings in it that were there 16 years earlier and lots that isn't."
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