Paayel and Priyanka are the dynamic sisters behind the Akrishti label and a tour de force in prêt and couture ethnic clothing. Their label is still in its infancy and was launched one year earlier. They are Mumbaiites who can trace their Bengali heritage back to the rich textiles and fabrics of Kolkata.
Shaaditimes spoke to the girls recently about their inspiration in clothing.
According to older sister Paayel, ''Our taste is simple. We don't like jazzy stuff. I think both Priyanka and me are influenced by Indian history in general and not any one particular region or time period.''
Their clothes are distinguished in large part because of the Bengali heritage, which seems evident in most of their pieces. ''We get many of the individual cotton and crepe suits exclusively batik dyed. I think our clothes are different yet wearable because of the many layers of artisanship that goes into them. We use the typical Kolkata embroidery (Kantha work) and also utilize Parsi gara embroidery in addition to badla, tila, sequences and crystal work.''
Their designs are reminiscent of the kaleidoscopic hues of Rajasthan and the vivaciousness of colourful Bengal. Sister Priyanka adds, ''Our latest collection boasts of hand-painted items which are an interesting combination when complemented with printed fabrics which have also been designed by us.''
The sisters believe in promoting regional crafts and have outsourced many of the components to West Bengal. Themes for this year include water. ''We have many views of water and we also like to work on the rural concept. The colours are a blend of earthy rusts, mauves, and ochres. We work well under pressure and have participated in many wedding symposiums this year and will be displayed in exhibitions in 2009 throughout India at wedding exhibitions like Bridal collections and Vivah.
Any pet peeves? ''We hate people who copy. I think people are discerning these days and with the advent of so many major retail outlets that stock ethnic clothing the consumer expects originality,'' believes Priyanka.
Paayel chimes in, "We work with pure fabric, and basically only have real crepes, chiffons, and batiks in our collection this year. So much effort goes into the entire collection from conception to finish we hardly get a chance to really critique our work until the product is completed." Priyanka continues, "We are either overseeing the tailors, or travelling to outsourced areas, or are with the embroiderers. It is heartbreaking to see one's efforts diminished by designers who take short-cuts." Paayel clarifies, "Although in the past designers like Monisha Jaisingh have spearheaded a movement to contain designs. It is still an uphill controversy."
The look this winter? The Akrishti label will be showing umbrella cuts. "We have lots of flair from the bodice. These are worn with churidars. Another popular look is the patiala salwar which has made a comeback. It looks the best on religious occasions specially when worn by the bride or for afternoon outings like a ladies sangeet, mehendi or Reception. Another talking point about our clothes is the multi-faceted colours we have included a range of shades from reds and yellows, mauves and aubergines, and a motley canvas of pinks in translucent and opaque hues."
The hottest colour according to them this year? "Definitely purple. Also fresh colours like oranges, saffrons, yellows and blues have become popular among the NRI clients. Green and blue looks rich and is elegant for the bride to wear. It's also something she can wear on other occasions following the wedding."
Clothes start at Rs.1500 and up. Wedding orders are taken between 3-4 weeks including delivery.
Contact paayelagarwaal@gmail.com
Mobile 9870480129
Workshop location in Juhu, Mumbai
Exhibition dates - 20-23 November 2008
Cymroza Art Gallery
Breach candy, Mumbai 10-8 pm
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