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Sarees : Black is back
Get "black" in style
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Since the time of Audrey Hepburn's "little black dress" in the movie Breakfast at Tiffany's to Jackie O's famous over-sized dark shades and A line black shifts credited to Givenchy, "Black" has been the perennial in every woman's wardrobe. So what about the forgotten black saree? A rage in the 70's and 80's from the impish Sharmila Tagore to the sultry Mumtaz, sarees have certainly made a come-back. And some may argue never went out of style.
In Bollywood actresses Priyanka Chopra, Celina Jaitley, and Aishwarya Rai have all been spotted recently sashaying in sultry black sarees at different functions. The trendy look in tinsel town this year seems to be the lacy black saree. The outfit is enhanced by variations in blouses: from the stringy almost not there to full sleeved, full bosomed bustier and low cut back less creations. The actresses are opting for tone-on-tone as opposed to mix and match and contrast in colours. Meaning a black saree is paired with a black (or similar spectrum of black stretching to powder grays, pewter, dull silver) blouse, bustier, or corset. The overall effect is one of understated elegance and sex appeal. The look oozes sensuality in a dignified manner without going over the top. Seen both on the ramp and at gatherings have been a medley of interesting textures from silk and khadi, linens and crepes, chiffons and chanderis, "If you can imagine it then create it!" says shaaditimes fashion expert
Amy Billmoria.
Black's aura
According to Billmoria, "the colour black defines the personality of a woman. She is confident, bold and exudes an aura and magnetic power. You have to remember all these actresses have such strong personalities that whatever they wear usually complements their posture, poise and stature rather than taking away from it," observes Billmoria. She points out, "black is one colour that any woman can carry with elan no matter what your hair colour or skin tone from blonde to brunette." It's also one colour many women turn to when they don't know what to wear. It's one of those colours that guarantees that you won't be over-dressed and won't be over-shadowed. It reflects taste, classicism and subtlety.
Although in India, and amongst Indians worldwide the colour black is not usually considered the norm at auspicious occasions, it has always been a staple amongst the glitterati, jet set and is acceptable in certain communities such as Sindhi, Punjabi and Parsi functions. Billmoria feels, "In time even black will be considered acceptable for certain occasions like a reception or cocktail party in an Indian wedding."
This year you might want to pull out your black saree and try wearing it different ways. Amy gives us the following suggestions to create your own individual style and be in style!
Amy's exciting saree creations
If you want to create some exciting individual designs with your black saree the following are some ideas you could try without having to do too much to the original garment.
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Mermaid skirt
You could cut up your saree and make a loose silhouette skirt that brushes your ankles. Depending on the fabric you could layer it. The idea here is to have a low waisted panel that would hold the gathers of fabric. The effect is one of gypsy skirt with some structure. Topped with a strappy T with sequences, cashmere shawl, bustiers, long fitted blouse it's a sure winner!
Pant saree
This drape was made famous in the eighties by the innovative design team of Abu-Sandeep. Although the concept has been around since the time of myths, Mahabharata, ancient goddesses and dancers, the duo popularised it by actually cutting the saree into pants with the remaining fabric pleated and stitched over top falling on one side, and leaving enough fabric (about 2 metres) to drape over the shoulder.
If you're visiting India, Satya Paul stores across India will create a pant-saree for you for approx Rs. 3,500 and up (depending on the saree selected from their store).
If you don't want to stitch your own pant-saree you could create the same effect by wearing a pair of black pants (preferably straight cut that fall from the waist). You should use a saree in a lighter weight fabric like, chiffon, crepe, or polyester mix. We advise you to stay away from organzas and chanderis as they tend to fluff. Just pleat the saree till there is about 2.5 metres left (approximately half the saree) and tuck it into your pants just off the middle. Then drape as you would a lehnga or saree (around your back and over one shoulder).
Sarong and bandhni
This is the easiest of the drapes. Wear a petticoat or slip preferably with some flair that falls from your waist and touches the floor / ankles. Take your saree and proceed to pleat the entire saree. As you complete 8-10 pleats tuck it in at the waist (front) and then make another 8-10 pleats and tuck in a few inches away to one side and continue till you have completed the entire waist, etc. You've created a gathered effect around your waist like a gathered sarong. The look can be accentuated with a fitted blouse if you're slim, or a short choli, corset, t-shirt, tube, etc. Also a bandhni dupatta would add that zest of panache to your outfit.
Santhal pleats
This is an interesting variation on the above. Here you would tie your petticoat above your bust. You could also wear a strappy fitted dress in black instead. Use lighter fabrics. Pleat your saree and tuck it in neatly at the bust and continue around your back to the front and pin. Make sure your pleats are spread evenly to avoid bulk. Leave at least 2.5 metres of fabric, which you will drape over your shoulder or across your shoulder. This too can be worn with your choice of top.
Bengali twist
Here what you wear inside matters. You're petticoat here should be of a nice heavy fabric like a brocade, silk etc...The colours just be co-ordinate to the sari colour although the texture is much heavier. Here you might want to use the fluffier sarees like organdy, organzas or chiffons / crepes. Divide your saree in half. Pleat the half and tuck it in the front or off the side. The remaining fabric (2.5 metres) can be draped like a Bengali saree where if your pleats fall on the right you take the end of the fabric and pull it over your right shoulder and not across your body as your would for the other drapes. The focus shifts to your front and if you are daring you may want to wear a corset, bustier. If you want a more demure traditional look you could opt for a buttoned up tight-fitted choli to the waist. And voila you've created a formal look without spending too much!
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Rohini Bhatia-Singh
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