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Stunning bridal wear
By Soojata Kothari
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In the wedding business for the past sixteen years, Soojata's atelier, the ground floor of a renovated bungalow in Mumbai, is like her contribution to the bridal designer wear - simple and understated - just like the location, which is in a by-lane and not in a fancy shop.
"My clientele are from all walks of life and hail from all socio-backgrounds in India and abroad," says Soojata, "and are usually given my reference by word of mouth." Her upscale designs may be in direct contrast to the minimalistic woodsy studio, but there is no denying they certainly demand a second look and are a one of a kind master-pieces...what some might label works of art. In a word they are beautiful garments, pleasing to the eye, that are practical at the same time. "What makes me different from other wedding designers is that my collection is made to order and each outfit has been specially crafted and tailor-made to the individual requirements and are one-of-a-kind originals. I have not made more than one of anything since I started in this business 16 years ago," states Soojata matter-of-factly.
One of a kind designs
She continues, "I think this is the prime selling point, especially for brides," she points out. "I don't think anyone likes the idea of investing a certain amount of money into their wardrobe for an important event to find someone else wearing the same outfit or the same type of outfit especially if she is the bride and it is her special day." Soojata observes, "Especially in the well to do and larger families the family tend is to dress as well if not more showy than the bride. In such cases I try to tone down family outfits in relation to the bride's without losing the show, glamour and appeal of the garment," says Soojata. "As long as there are families there will always be sibling rivalries and insecurities," laughs Soojata and adds, "but the bride will always be the bride."
"My brides have to have the inner confidence to carry my designs or I won't make the suggestion," says Soojata. Her collection's insignia is the intricate back-less cholis and blouses, scalloped ornate cummerbunds intricately matched, belts that are specially designed to match the garment. "My outfits should not and do not outshine the bride," observes Soojata. "So many times you've heard a guest at a wedding unable to remember how the bride looked. Usually you hear, the jewellery was stunning, her dress was awesome etc...About the bride? Few remember what the bride looked like. I try and make the girl stand out followed by her make-up, jewellery and clothes which are co-ordinated to give an overall aestheticism to the attire," says Soojata.
NRI bride and the desi bahu
"I think no matter how modern the family in India or abroad most people prefer the bride to be covered for the auspicious occasions like the pheras and ring ceremony. "According to the clientele there is a need to modernise tradition," believes Soojata but cautions, "that doesn't imply aping the designs of the west outright. I look for inspiration within my country and at the current trends. I also look at the individual requirements of the girl and her family," she says.
"An Indian girl from abroad will have a different set of requirements than an Indian girl in India marrying an Indian. The same applies to the Indian girl from abroad marrying an Indian abroad or a foreigner. Each will have their own needs and restraints. I have created Indian-western gowns for Indians in the past and have created a white gown as well. Sometimes I have been given antique borders to re-work, or antique laces etc..."
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